Want To Help Save The Oyster Industry? Â Eat Bigger Ones, Some Farmer’s And Chefs Say
“The fact that oyster farmers are suffering so much has to do with the restaurant business,†Blue Hill at Stone Barns Chef Dan Barber said.
By Ben Kesslen
When restaurants closed across the country, oyster farmers Mike and Isabel Osinski lost almost all of their clients.
The couple, who live and work on the North Fork of Long Island, depend on restaurants to serve their oysters at raw bars and happy hours to break even. But stay-at-home orders killed sales, leaving the Osinskis’ oysters ready to be shucked and slurped — yet with nobody to eat them.
In April, a study conducted by Virginia Tech found that 97 percent of mollusk businesses have been affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, and only 24 percent said they could get through the next three months “without external intervention,†like a government bailout.
The industry is suffering, and oyster farmers like the Osinskis face a serious problem: Many Americans don’t know how to shuck or cook oysters at home — and nobody knows when restaurants will go back to business as usual. While some farms have pivoted to selling the seafood online, Bob Rheault, the executive director of the East Coast Shellfish Growers Associations, said even those doing it well can only recoup about 20 to 30 percent of their profits.
At-home orders help, but most Americans don’t know what to do with 50 live oysters, Rheualt said, and during a pandemic and a recession, it’s tough to justify buying a food that’s widely seen as a luxury.
The Osinskis, though, has proposed a solution to the industry’s problem: Grow oysters bigger and get them back on the kitchen table.
Large oysters, proponents say, mean the shells stay in the water longer, which allows producers to weather market instability. They also filter more water, build up artificial reefs and provide a substantial and healthy portion of protein. Isabel Osinski says oysters have huge health benefits too, pointing to their high zinc content as “a well-known and documented way to boost your immune system.â€
But the problem with bigger oysters is that Americans prefer to eat small ones.
Farmers have mastered the timing of when to pull their oysters so they’re the right size and are able to grow the shells in the shape consumers prefer. But delivering the petite oysters diners want means they generally have to be harvested anywhere between eight months to two years in the U.S., depending on where they’re grown. If farmers leave their oysters in the water during the pandemic, they’ll get much bigger than consumers are generally willing to buy or consume.
At the Osinski’s farm, Widow’s Hole Oyster Company in Greenport, New York, now is the time they would be putting in seed for next year, but they aren’t sure how much to plant. “We don’t know what the future holds,†Mike Osinski said.
The Osinskis say people laugh when they suggest growing oysters bigger, but Dan Barber, the award-winning chef and co-owner of Blue Hill in New York City and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Tarrytown, New York, thinks it’s a good idea and buys some of the Osinskis’ larger shells.
“The fact that oyster farmers are suffering so much has to do with the restaurant business,†Barber said, citing “a culture that shifted away from oysters as a bedrock to the diet, and went to cocktail oysters.â€
The infrastructure and the demand simply don’t exist to fulfill the Osinskis’ dream of people eating larger oysters, like they might steak or salmon, and there’s scant money to build it, unlike 150 years ago, when that infrastructure was robust.
Oysters were once so ubiquitous in the Northeast that settlers found the shells to be a navigational hazard when they reached the mouth of the Hudson River, Robert Jones, the global lead of aquaculture at the Nature Conservatory, said. New Yorkers of all classes consumed more oysters than beef in the late 19th century, and the mollusks were a staple food for many along the coasts.
Back then, oysters were often larger, sometimes five to seven inches long, and there was a whole system for categorizing them, said Christine Keiner, an oyster historian, and professor at the Rochester Institute of Technology. The Campbell Soup Company was known to buy up all the small ones for canned soup, and people often cooked larger, meatier ones at home.
But overharvesting during the 19th and 20th century flattened the reefs, Keiner said, and despite oysters’ ability to clean the waters they inhabit, widespread pollution killed off much of the wild oyster population. In addition, a few typhoid deaths from oyster consumption caused panic, and people started to turn to other forms of protein that were becoming more affordable.
Oysters moved to the raw bar, and have stayed there ever since.
Jones, of the Nature Conservancy, said trying to rebuild oysters’ ecosystem to where it once was, and let some grow larger in the process, would help the industry and the environment.
“Oysters can be beyond sustainable,†he said, explaining that one small oyster can filter up 50 gallons of water a day and bigger oysters can filter even more. “It’s not just about the minimization of impact, but oysters provide ecological value.â€
But Rheault, of the Shellfish Growers Association, said the key to the industry’s future is teaching people how to shuck at home, not larger oysters. It’s nice larger oysters filter more water, he said, but the industry is still consumer-driven.
“In all honesty, we got into this to produce oysters. We didn’t do it for the wonderful ecosystem that oysters provide,†Rheualt said. “We have to produce what the customer wants, and the customer wants a small, deep cup, uniform tasty piece.â€
The problem right now, he said, is that they’re just not buying it.
FOOTNOTE: Â Ben Kesslen is a reporter for NBC News.Â
Nike Turned Away a Public Health Official From Its Warehouse Days After a Worker With COVID-19 Died
The Health Department received a complaint that a Nike warehouse wasn’t being cleaned thoroughly or allowing for social distancing. Its inspector wasn’t allowed inside. Twenty-one workers have tested positive for COVID-19 at Nike’s Memphis locations.
MEMPHIS, Tenn. — The security guard said no. It didn’t matter that the visitor was from the Shelby County Health Department.
It didn’t matter that she was there to investigate health conditions at a Nike distribution center where, five days earlier, company officials learned a temporary worker had died after testing positive for the novel coronavirus.
The security guard staffing the gate at the sprawling site said that without an appointment, no one could come in.
On the afternoon of April 16, the county environmental health employee left her card but without answers to a complaint the department had received that the giant athletic wear maker wasn’t cleaning thoroughly or allowing for social distancing among workers.
The incident, which has not been reported before, illustrates a health department caught off guard by the refusal of a corporate giant to let it inside a southeast Memphis facility and the yawning communication gaps between the county agency charged with protecting the public’s health and the state agency charged with workplace safety. At least one complaint about conditions at the facility visited by the environmental health worker was also filed with the Tennessee Occupational Safety and Health Administration, but it wasn’t passed on to the County Health Department.
As of May 18, 21 workers at Nike’s five Memphis warehouses and distribution centers have tested positive for the coronavirus, up from nine workers less than three weeks earlier.
Nike’s footprint here is massive: In 2015, it opened its largest distribution center in the world, the 2.8 million square foot North America Logistics Campus, on the city’s far north side. And with more than 5.3 million square feet of warehouse space in the metro area, Nike runs the region’s largest proprietary distribution operation, according to the Memphis Business Journal.
About 3,100 employees work at Nike’s distribution centers and warehouses across the Memphis metro area. They work to fulfill online orders from around the United States. Since Nike shuttered its physical stores in mid-March, such orders have soared. In at least one facility, workers were given masks with swooshes on them.
Between March 26 and May 12, the Health Department received 201 COVID-19 complaints about businesses, including concerns about nonessential businesses that were still operating, a lack of social distancing, and insufficient cleaning. This particular Nike facility was the only one at which the department was turned away, Health Department officials said.
On April 17, a day after the security guard turned away the environmental health worker, whose formal title is environmentalist, a Nike administrator spoke to her by phone. The administrator said that, to protect workers, the company had installed markers on the floor spaced 6 feet apart and the facility closed every Tuesday for cleaning.
With that explanation, the Health Department was satisfied. The department did not return to the distribution center to verify that what Nike said was true.
The environmentalist “felt at that time there was nothing else that needed to be done,†said Kasia Alexander, environmental health administrator for the department.
The department has the authority to summon police to access a business immediately, and has exercised that authority in the past, said Dr. Bruce Randolph, the department’s health director.
But he defended the decision not to escalate matters. “We don’t just automatically get law enforcement involved simply because the first time we show up, some security and management person refuses to allow us access.â€
And late last month, Nike began temperature checks for all employees, temp workers, and visitors.
Still, a former federal OSHA administrator called the department’s failure to demand access and follow up “absolutely inappropriate.â€
“The state and county officials are responsible for protecting the health of the public,†said David Michaels, who worked in the Obama administration.
“The Health Department should know that this virus doesn’t stop at the warehouse gate, that lack of social distancing in the facility will affect not only the workers there, and increase their risk of disease, [but] also their families and the entire community.
“By this action, they’re putting all of Memphis at risk.â€
“America’s Distribution Centerâ€
The logistics industry employs 1 in 6 workers in the Memphis metro area, more than any other industry, according to the Greater Memphis Chamber. In the city, around 43,000 workers are in transportation and warehousing, according to 2018 census data, three times more than would be expected when compared with other cities.
For decades, city leaders have worked to cement Memphis’ status as “America’s Distribution Center,†thanks in part to its favorable position on the four Rs: river, runway, rail and road.
Four Nike warehouses sit in southeast Memphis, where according to U.S. census data, the share of packagers and packers is nearly seven times higher than similarly sized geographic areas in other cities. The average hourly wage for packers in the metro area is $12.30.
In 2012, Nike received a nearly $58 million tax break over 15 years to create 250 jobs, retain more than 1,600 more, and expand distribution centers, including the company’s largest distribution hub, which was briefly shuttered April 2 after a worker tested positive for the coronavirus.
In the last fiscal year, Nike reported more than $39 billion in revenue, up 7.5% from the prior year, but the company is already tempering expectations for this year.
In a May 14 press release, Nike President and CEO John Donahoe said “the full extent of the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on NIKE’s operational and financial performance remains uncertain and will depend on many factors outside of NIKE’s control.â€
A lone bright spot: “We have increased our digital fulfillment capacity to meet this higher than anticipated demand which is partially offsetting declines in NIKE-owned stores,†Donahoe said.
In human terms, fulfillment is the manual process by which often low-wage laborers fill and package orders at sprawling distribution centers like the one at 5151 Shelby Drive, where signature orange swooshes adorn low-slung buildings. Upgrades to this center were also part of the tax incentive package.
On a recent afternoon, workers could be seen approaching a white tent, where a contract worker, wearing a T-shirt with a white cross on the back, held a temperature scanner.
When the day shift ended, hundreds of workers, some wearing red T-shirts with the name of the staffing agency Adecco on the sleeve, streamed out. A few sat shoulder to shoulder in front of an empty guard shack, waiting for a ride home.
On the day that the Health Department’s environmentalist arrived, Nike and department officials said, she was met by a security guard who works for a third-party company. (The Health Department’s records show that the Nike facility was at a different, but nearby, address.)
The city’s highest-profile Nike executive conceded that it was a mistake to keep the Health Department out.
“If you’re doing the right thing, you should give admittance to those people,†said Willie Gregory, Nike’s director of global community impact. In December, he was named board chairman of the Greater Memphis Chamber.
A Lack of Communication
Nike isn’t the city’s only distribution center where workers have tested positive for the coronavirus: At least three workers have tested positive at a Kroger warehouse that supplies about 100 area grocery stores; at least 10 have tested positive at the FedEx hub; and an employee has reported more than 20 coronavirus-infected co-workers at PFS, a distribution center that ships jewelry and makeup. PFS has declined to answer questions about the number of infected employees.
While the responsibility for providing a safe work environment falls to employers, holding them accountable is the job of TOSHA, Tennessee’s equivalent of the federal OSHA. Protecting the public’s health is the county Health Department’s charge.
But the government agencies don’t freely share information with each other, and the federal and state OSHA criteria that dictate whether businesses must report COVID-19 infections to authorities are so narrowly defined that few workplace infections fall under the record-keeping rules.
Randolph, the county health director, has said his department relies on workers to file complaints about their place of employment. Only 11 of the 201 COVID-19 business complaints filed between March 26 and May 12 were connected to warehouses or distribution centers. Advocates for worker rights have said the low number of complaints is more of a reflection of fear among workers and not exemplary working conditions.
And even though several warehouses have had multiple employees test positive for the virus, the Health Department is only tracking workplace clusters at health care facilities, such as nursing homes, not other types of businesses.
Asked why it’s not tracking cases at other workplaces, Randolph said that TOSHA requires employers to maintain a log of work-related injuries and illnesses.
“Employees who become infected in the workplace as a result of being exposed to someone else who is infected, that’s a work-related illness and that’s reportable under TOSHA,†Randolph said.
Although a Nike spokesperson confirmed 21 employees have tested positive for the coronavirus, a TOSHA spokesperson said the agency had not received notification from Nike about any COVID-19 workplace illnesses or deaths at any of the company’s Memphis locations.
That’s not surprising, Michaels said. According to TOSHA regulations, employers are not required to determine whether an infected employee contracted the virus at work in areas where there has been community spread, which would include Memphis and Shelby County.
And if a complaint submitted to TOSHA doesn’t allege an immediate health risk, it likely won’t prompt an investigation. The complaint that TOSHA received April 7 about the Shelby Drive distribution center was just such a complaint.
“Caller would like guidance on whether or not the workplace can be considered essential, and also has questions concerning the CDC’s 6-foot distance rule,†according to a summary of an after-hours voicemail left on the federal OSHA hotline. The summary is included in a TOSHA case file report.
Three days later, on April 10, Nike closed the warehouse for a deep cleaning that included electrostatic disinfection. The following day, Nike learned that a temporary worker who had tested positive for the coronavirus had died.
On April 13, the day that Nike reopened the warehouse, TOSHA determined that no inspection of the site was necessary, because no hazard had been alleged. The complaint was marked closed, and the county Health Department said it was never notified about it.
“It sounds like TOSHA is taking the lead from federal OSHA,†Michaels said. “Rather than leaning forward, they’re leaning back and they’re not actively stepping in and saying how can we best make sure workers are protected.â€
That leaves workers with few options, Michaels said.
“They certainly can send complaints into OSHA and into the state and county health department, but workers without unions have very little protection.â€
A spokesman for the Tennessee Department of Labor and Workforce Development, which oversees TOSHA, said the agency “always has and continues to enforce the standards set forth by the federal OSHA program.â€
“These are the same standards that were in place when Mr. Michaels was in a leadership role at the federal agency,†the spokesman said.
Based on its internal workplace notification criteria, Nike has notified workers four times at the Shelby Drive facility and three times at its facility in the Frayser neighborhood that workers have tested positive for the coronavirus.
Adecco, the staffing agency that employed the worker who tested positive and later died, said it “took swift action to notify our employees that a fellow team member was being tested for COVID-19, and Nike took the appropriate steps to evacuate the facility for professional sanitization.â€
“Those who worked in closer proximity to the individual received additional direction to self-quarantine for 14 days in accordance with CDC guidelines,†Adecco spokeswoman Mary Beth Waddill said by email.
“While we can confirm our associate tested positive for COVID-19, we currently do not have access to his specific cause of death, and if we did, we would not be able to disclose details to protect this person’s privacy,†she said.
Adecco is currently hiring temporary warehouse workers for Nike, with pay ranging from $11 to $14 an hour, according to its website.
Since being turned away on April 16 and the followup phone call the next day, the Health Department has had two interactions with Nike, a company spokeswoman said. On May 6, the spokeswoman said, a Health Department employee toured Nike’s Frayser facility to review safety protocols after an employee’s complaint. (A Health Department spokeswoman said that visit did not occur.)
On May 18, after a reporter interviewed Randolph for this story, a Health Department employee contacted Nike’s environmental health director “to follow-up on positive employee cases, gather more details and begin contact tracing,†the company spokeswoman said.
While the Teamsters represent some warehouse workers in Memphis, the vast majority are not represented. That’s where organizations like Workers Interfaith Network, which advocates for worker justice, come in.
The network has fielded concerns from FedEx hub workers, but none at Nike, said Rev. Osagyefo Sekou, the network’s interim executive director. With no union and without the financial cushion to stay home, low-wage workers are often left with no option but to return to jobs despite the risk of contracting the virus, Sekou said.
“People got to come to work because they need to make some money,†he said.
“My grandma would say, ‘If you give people chitlin’ choices, they’ll make funky decisions,’†he said. “For the poor workers, that’s the choices they’re given. So they gotta clean ’em, boil ’em up the best they can, put some hot sauce on it, and keep it moving.â€
Wendi C. Thomas is the editor of MLK50: Justice Through Journalism. Email her at wendicthomas@mlk50.com and follow her on Twitter at @wendi_c_thomas.
FOOTNOTE:  MLK50 and ProPublica are investigating working conditions in warehouses across Memphis — particularly in the weeks since the COVID-19 pandemic has emerged. If you or someone you know can share more with reporters about your work experience, especially since March 2020, please email our reporting team at memphis@propublica.org, or call/text 901-633-3638.
Our ideal target is children who have not had any pre-school experience but will be entering kindergarten this fall.
Children enrolled in the following schools are of particular interest as additional supports can be offered up through 3rd grade:Â Caze, Evans, and Chandler Elementary.
But we will serve any child entering kindergarten as space allows.
Your Superstar is invited to join the United Way this summer for some virtual fun
from their own home!
United Way of Southwestern Indiana invites you and your child to join us in FREE virtual daily educational ZOOM calls focused on preparing your child for Kindergarten.
I wish everyone would vote either by voting “In-person” or by “Absentee Ballot”. In my judgment, the Absentee Ballot by mail voting method should be used only in special circumstances because it is easier to abuse/cheat by someone who purposely does not want to follow the Election Rules/Code.
It is believed that Democratic Party activist Jan Reed violated Indiana Election Code by mailing improper completed Absentee Ballot applications to hundreds of Voters. This matter has been referred to the Vanderburgh County Prosecutor’s office for investigation and possible prosecution. It appears Ms. Reed took this action on her own. Jan Reed is not a volunteer assisting the Vanderburgh County Election Office. The Election Office has taken a large volume of calls from the public expressing concern and anger about Ms. Reed’s actions. Yesterday Vanderburgh County Clerk Carla Hayden issued the following Press Release to make certain the public is aware that Ms. Reed is not affiliated with the Election Office. You may also review the Referral Regarding Absentee Ballot Applications to the Prosecutor’s office here.
We are proud to announce that the Ascension St. Vincent Evansville and University of Evansville Neurologic Residency Program for physical therapists has been granted initial accreditation by the American Board of Physical Therapy Residency and Fellowship Education!
In receiving initial accreditation, the program has successfully demonstrated its commitment to educational standards and ethical business practices indicative of quality, accountability, and continuous improvement that enhances the physical therapy profession.
This makes the third accredited residency program at the University of Evansville and the first neurologic residency program in the state of Indiana.
In keeping with the Executive Orders from Governor Holcomb and the most recent guidance from the Indiana Public Access Counselor, the Board of School Trustees of the Evansville Vanderburgh School Corporation will meet virtually to conduct the regularly scheduled meeting of the EVSC Board of School Trustees on Tuesday, May 26, 2020, at 5:30 PM.
The media and public can listen to the meeting by tuning in to EVSC’s radio station WPSR on FM 90.7 or stream live from the internet at https://nkstreaming.com/WPSR-HD1/.
Neo is a super handsome large-and-in-charge man. He was adopted from VHS as a kitten. 3 years (and several pounds 😊) later, his family had to move and did not take him. His adoption fee is $40 and he’s neutered & ready to go home today. Contact Vanderburgh Humane at (812) 426-2563 or adoptions@vhslifesaver.org for details!
MADISON • Join us 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. May 25 at the Veterans Memorial Cemetery in observance of Memorial Day. Flags will be available to place on graves. There will be no formal ceremonies this year. Please ensure you follow Phase 3 recommendations, viewable here: Back on Track Indiana.
“May we never forget our fallen comrades. Freedom isn’t free.”
~ Sgt. Maj. Bill Paxton
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The Indiana State Department of Health (ISDH) today announced that 513 additional Hoosiers have been diagnosed with COVID-19 through testing at ISDH, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and private laboratories. That brings to 30,901 the total number of Indiana residents known to have the novel coronavirus following corrections to the previous day’s total.
A total of 1,812 Hoosiers are confirmed to have died from COVID-19, an increase of 21 over the previous day. Another 152 probable deaths have been reported based on clinical diagnoses in patients for whom no positive test is on record. Deaths are reported based on when data are received by ISDH and occurred over multiple days.
To date, 214,933 tests have been reported to ISDH, up from 208,561 on Friday.
Hoosiers who have symptoms of COVID-19 and those who have been exposed and need a test to return to work are encouraged to visit a state-sponsored testing site for free testing. Individuals without symptoms who are at high risk because they are over age 65, have diabetes, obesity, high blood pressure or another underlying condition, as well as those who are pregnant, live with a high-risk individual or are a member of a minority population that is at greater risk for severe illness, also are encouraged to get tested.
ISDH is holding drive-thru testing clinics from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. today in Brazil, Hammond, Shelbyville and Wheatfield. For details about these clinics, or to find other testing locations around the state, visit www.coronavirus.in.gov and click on the COVID-19 testing information link.
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