WINE TALK
BY ROBERT WHITLEY
There are some who believe advice that suggests specific wines match up better with specific foods is a silly waste of analysis. That’s the drink-whatever-you-like-crowd, and there is some merit to their argument.
To that point, I have a friend who drinks red wine with everything and he’s happy as a clam, even when he’s sipping cabernet sauvignon over a bowl of steamed clams. It wouldn’t be my choice, but taste in wine is so personal I’ve given up on attempting an intervention.
And you can bet that during the recent Valentine’s Day orgy of sweet excess, many a bottle of Champagne was consumed while chomping on chocolate, despite repeated warnings that sweet confections are a ruinous combination with high-acid bubbly.
Nevertheless, it seems there is always someone crying out for help with a wine pairing for an upcoming dinner party, and I stand ready to assist.
So it was when a reader from Atlanta by the name of Trish asked for my wine suggestion for a spicy cioppino dish. This sort of fish stew makes for a tricky wine pairing because the traditional idea of serving white wine with fish is foiled by the strong savory element imparted by a rich tomato sauce.
Few white wines can stand up to an earthy, spicy cioppino sauce. Even though this dish was created in San Francisco, I take my wine cues from Italy, specifically Sicily, where red wine with fish is imbedded in the culinary culture. I recall many delicious fish dishes bathed in capers, olives, onions and tomatoes served with nero d’avola.
So that is my recommendation for this delicious seafood dish. Alternative red wines, depending on what’s available near you, would be Cotes du Rhone rouge, Beaujolais cru or even a light Rioja crianza. Unconventional, yes. But sure to please.
Best Value
Domaine Chiroulet 2013 ‘Terres Blanches,’ Cotes de Gascogne, France ($12) — While most whites from southwest France tend to be simple, fresh and clean, there are the handful that have a higher calling. Domaine Chiroulet shoots for a suave complexity with its Terres Blanches, using a higher percentage of sauvignon blanc (40 percent) than is typical, and lees stirring provides additional complexity and body. The remainder of the blend are the traditional grapes gros manseng and ugni blanc, but this wine seems to be all about the sauvignon. It exhibits hints of melon and citrus, with an interesting back note of brioche though it spends no time in barrel. It’s well balanced, with crisp acidity and inviting minerality. A gem at the price. Rating: 90.
Vina Robles 2012 ‘Red 4,’ Paso Robles ($17) — Though it’s a bit early to think about the grilling season, this red Rhone-style blend from Vina Robles is a perfect match for grilled chops and steaks. A juicy, mouth-watering blend of petite sirah, syrah, grenache and mourvedre, it shows spicy red fruit and supple tannins, a crowd-pleasing combination. Rating: 89.
Domaine du Tariquet 2013 ‘Classic,’ Cotres de Gascogne ($12) — The beauty of the white wines of southwest France is their freshness and easy drinkability. Domaine du Tariquet’s ‘Classic’ is a blend of ugni-blanc, colombard, sauvignon and gros manseng. Ugni-blanc and colombard, of course, are often used in the production of spirits and not so much for table wines. The Sauvignon and gros manseng give the nose a bit of lift, and on the palate notes of lime citrus and green apple dominate. It is crisp and clean and just what the doctor ordered on a warm summer day. Rating: 88.
Tasting Notes
Merry Edwards 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($32) — This is the genius of Merry Edwards for all the world to see. The Grand Dame of California pinot noir also has a deft hand with sauvignon blanc. I would even venture to say her RRV sauvignon is routinely among the top five sauvignons made in America. The 2013 is remarkably complex, destroying the conventional wisdom that sauvignons are simple and uninteresting over time. This vintage exhibits notes of white peach, tangerine, lemon oil, lime zest, orange blossom and an intriguing spice note. With mouth-watering acidity and nervy minerality, it is a sauvignon that is alive and appealing and extremely genuine. Brilliant! Rating: 95.
Chateau Soleil 2009 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux, France ($35) — This chateau in the satellite AOC of Puisseguin Saint-Emilion is part of the Stephan von Neipperg stable of chateaux (which includes Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere). That means, quite simply, that it is held to the highest standards. The soils of the estate are clay and limestone and merlot is the primary grape planted at about 80 percent, with some cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. This outstanding vintage produced a beautiful wine that exhibits hints of cedar, spice and cassis on the nose. Well balanced, the fine tannins remain firm and the wine is still showing young. Another five to seven years should see it begin to plateau. On the palate this vintage presents layers of blackberry, plum and currant fruit, with an overlay of oak vanillin. Beautifully done. Rating: 92.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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